Report from Shiva's City

1-23-09

It has proven to be quite difficult to think of what to include in these posts. This country is so vivid that I begin to feel that I should include everything or just forget it..........I think something in between, some kind of stream of thought is how it has to work. Since Corey last posted we have hunkered down at the Shanti Guest House in the "old city" of Varanasi with all the backpackers. It is sweet to hear everyone from varied countries making friends through the medium of broken English. Varanasi feels like the quintessence of the Indian experience with bodies burning, everyone pushing their wares (especially silk and hash), huge cows block the extremely narrow streets, monkeys thieving (we saw one snatch a pack of cigarettes and promptly put four in his mouth the right direction), gangs of red mouthed men chewing and spitting the famous Varanasi 'pan,' and so much more.

We witnessed the birthday of our beloved Corey and forged out for a night boat ride gazing back at the oldest living city in the world. A truly unforgettable sight. Unfortunately our gusto has been tempered by a nagging cold/flu which we undoubtedly picked up in Bodhgaya at H.H. Karmapa's teachings. A shrine room full of coughing westerners, we probably would have stood a better chance drinking from the Ganges. I was not at my most tip top for her birthday and I hope to make it up to her when we have fully recovered. Four days ago we collected our dear friend from Shambhala Mountain Center Carrie Marks from the Varanasi airport. Her red hair and big eyes reminding me of my own arrival in India only three weeks back. This place learns you quick. She only stayed a few nights and moved on her way to attend teachings from Mingyur Rinpoche in Bodhgaya. We also bid farewell to our spontaneous, intrepid travel companion and human Indian encyclopedia Stevie Brooks. Only before he left we made the trek to a fancy hotel, sat in the bar and watched as our President took his oath of office. All the locals have been very eager to talk with us about Obama. "Good man," "honest man," "very good for India," they say. Seems that he not only has America's hopes but those of the whole world on his shoulders.

Rousing ourselves, two days ago, we made the trip to Sarnath to pay our pilgrims respect to the old stupa at Deer Park. As with Bodgaya, I was struck and then touched by the ordinariness of these sights and places. Buddha's so called last words running through my mind, "Tell the people that an ordinary man was born and discovered the awakened state." Suddenly I found a tear falling during my meditation thinking of the simplicity of our deepest human wish to be free from the struggle to maintain our existence. But I digress. We then made the small walk over to the V.V. Thrangu Rinpoche's monastery in Sarnath called Vajra Vidya. I took refuge with him a dozen or so years ago and was hopeful for another meeting. As it turns out, Rinpoche was in Hong Kong but H.H. Karmapa was staying for a few days and giving a blessing. A bit of good fortune to clear up our congested heads.

We are now pulling up our boot straps and looking north toward Nepal with a stop in Kushinigar. Hoping to still be able to post with Nepal's new energy crisis mandating 16 hours of no power. We are a little weathered by very cheerful and closely watching as this remarkable trip continues.